What follows is only a reflection of my limited experience and by no means it should be taken to be absolute or even truthful. Let me begin by saying that I was born and raised in Puerto Rico, but I have been a resident of Maryland since 1987. My parents still live there, so I visit them about once every 18 months.In December of 1997, Monika and I tried to go climbing in Puerto Rico over the Christmas holidays, but to our discontent, it proved all-but-impossible. Before we left MD, I phoned Aventuras Tierra Adentro (the only climbing outfit in the Island at that time) and I chatted with a number of their employees.
Aventuras Tierra AdentroThey all were very attentive and friendly although not helpful by American standards. There are no guide books, and all climbing information is passed by word-of-mouth.
272-B Pinero Ave.
University Gardens
San Juan, PR 00927
Tel. (787)766-0470
As far as I was able to gather, there are three climbing areas in the main Island:
Bayamon is an old abandoned limestone quarry which has been bolted by the locals. The quarry can be easily assessed from the Puerto Rican Parrot Route (route 22 in the map) and it is behind the old NASA rockets displayed in the Parque de las Ciencias (which is visible from route 22). According to the locals, the routes range from 5.8 to 5.12, are bolted, and are only one pitch long. However, the access is not trivial, and according to the State Police, "if you are climbing, you are trespassing". Be aware of this because Puerto Rican Police is not similar to what you may be accustomed to. These "law enforcement" personnel have little tolerance, are happy triggers, and will have no problem arresting you and throwing you in jail just for the fun of it. Furthermore, the time that you will spend in jail will be inversely proportional to your buying power.To get to the routes, drive past the Parque de las Ciencias (on the right) and make the first right at the light. Continue and make the next right and get into the quarry from behind (through a residential area). Ask the people at Aventuras Tierra Adentro for more details.
The routes in Ciales are bolted as well, and are located along the Old Ciales Road (get a map of PR and you will see it). According to the locals, the routes can be seeing from the road but I don't know much more than this.
Las Tetas de Cayey is the only trad and multi-pitch area in the main Island. It is easily seen from the Monumento al Jibaro in the Paso Fino Horse Route (route 52 in the map). As their name implies, they are the two large breast shaped rock hills behind the monument. However, there is NO ACCESS to this area. According to the employees at Aventuras Tierra Adentro, the owner Rosanno Boscarino, has struck a deal with the land owner and he will take you there for a fee of $150/person/day. Even if you don't need a guided service, his presence is required and thus the fee applies.
In addition to these climbing areas, you can climb at Mona Island (50 miles off the west cost of PR). However, as I found last year and contrary to what R&I claimed on their article "Mona Lisa" (R&I #76), climbing in this Natural Reserve is prohibited by the Puerto Rican Department of Natural and Environmental Resources and you can be arrested for it (although law enforcement in Mona is limited). Furthermore, the trip has to be organized as an expedition given that there is a limited number of boats that are authorized to travel to Mona Island and this brings the trasportation cost to about $100/person for groups of 10 or more people.
As of December 1997, the first climbing gym is the Island was under construction, and now it is open. This gym, named Solid Rock, has no association with Aventuras Tierra Adentro and this has forced the owner of Aventuras Tierra Adentro to consider opening a gym of his own. I don't know more about it.
All and all, if climbing is the name of the game, it can be shown that a climbing trip to the Austrian Alps is cheaper than a climbing trip to Puerto Rico. Perhaps in a couple of years this will change, but I doubt it (I lived in the Island for too long to hope for any level of common sense and/or reason from anybody). Other local sports like drinking, scuba diving, water skiing, sailing, surfing, etc. may be more appropriate uses of your time.
Buena Suerte...
Pedro
I. Espina© 1998, scenic routes map courtesy
of the Puerto
Rico Tourism Company.