Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße
August 25, 1997

In many places, the Großglocknerstraße follows the ancient trading routes that used to connect the Roman settlement of Aguntum (near Lienz) to points north of the Alps. During the Middle Ages, segments today occupied by the Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße served as mule paths used to exchange Venetian cloths, wine, glassware, and spices for gold, silver, and salt mined in areas north of the Alps. 

In 1971, the Austrian provinces of Kärnten, of Tirol, and of Salzburg, entered in agreement for the foundation of the Nationalpark Hohe Tauern, which with its 1800 sq. km, is the largest national park in the Alps today. Every year, from mid-May to early November, the Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße enables 1.2 million visitors to enjoy the splendor of this national park from the comfort of their car seats. No visit to the Austrian Alps would be complete without a drive through it. 

As usual, our trip began at the north end of the Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße in the town of Zell am See (the way that you would follow if you were coming from Munich). From this side, your first stop is the Mauthaus Ferleiten (i.e., toll plaza, 1145 m @ km 14.5) were you may experience sticker shock when the toll attendant requests ÖS360 per car -- no doubt an omen of things to come from our good friends at the NPS. Next to the toll plaza is the Wildpark Ferleiten -- a small zoo which can provide a fun stop for children. The Wildpark is open from 8:00 until dusk and it has over 200 animals in its collection. In addition, the Wildpark offers daily birds of prey shows at 11:00 and 15:00, from early July to late September (except on Mondays). 

From the toll plaza on, the pace is set by the slowest tourist bus ahead. Every once in a while, there will be a straight section of road that will enable you to pass the buses, but it is best to bring your patience bag and enjoy the scenery. Along the way you will encounter many rest stops and road pull-outs, some of which provide remarkable vistas (see composite bellow).  

View of the southeast faces of the Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm from the Hexenküche (the Witches' Kitchen, 1850 m @ km 23), Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße, Nationalpark Hohe Tauern, Austria -- details on each mountain can be obtained by clicking on the individual images that create this panoramic composite.  At the Hexenküche, road workers found old chain gang links during the construction of the Großglocknerstraße. These chain links were dated to the 17th century when they were used in the transport of prisoners from Salzburg to forced labor camps in Venice.

A bit further up the road you will encounter the Fuschertörl, 2428 m @ km 27.4, where the architect Clemens Holzmeister build a chapel in memory of the workers that lost their lives during the construction of the Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße. During bad weather days, you can observe the mighty force of the mountain climate, as clouds rush up hill at remarkable speeds and engulf you before you can walk 100 m to the car. At km 33.7, the Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße reaches its highest road passing at the Hochtor. From the late middle ages to the 17th century, Hochtor was the third most important trade route between Venice and Germany. Even today, remains of the old roman trading route, Römerweg, are clearly visible next to the modern road. 

At km 40 the Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße splits; one branch leads south towards Lienz, the other, a dead-ended branch, detours towards the Großglockner basin. Early along the dead-end branch, the road reaches the Glocknerhaus (2132 m). During the early 1900's, the Pasterze glacier (Pasterzenkees) was much larger than it is today, and the Glocknerhaus was the main hut used for assaults on the Großglockner. Due to the high incidence of avalanche in this portion of the road, a protective roof was erected over the Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße to prevent seasonal damage to its surface (see photo on the left). 

A few kilometers up the road, the Großglockner branch of the Hochalpenstraße reaches its conclusion at the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe, 2369 m. At this location you will find a large multi-level parking garage, a bank (which is pretty worthless given that they don't have an ATM nor do they accept VISA), gift shops, a restaurant, access to the Franz-Josefs-Haus (2418 m), and an observation deck in which you will be humbled by the view of Großglockner (3798 m), tallest mountain in Austria, and the Pasterzenkees, longest glacier in eastern Europe. 

Like any worthwhile objective, the quest for the summit of Großglockner did not come easy. The Kleinglockner (lower summit of Großglockner, 3783 m) was first climbed in August 25, 1799 by an expedition sponsored by the cardinal and prince bishop of Gurk, Franz Xaver, count of Salm-Reifferscheid. In that attempt the Klotz brothers, Sigmund von Hohenwart, and Johann Zoppoth, all from Heiligenblut, placed a cross given by the prince bishop at the summit of Kleinglockner. The next year, 1800, a second expedition sponsored by the prince bishop came back with 62 people and 16 hauling horses, to climb true summit. On July 28, a summiting party consisting of father Horasch of Dolläch, and the same four carpenters from Heiligenblut that had climbed the Kleinglockner the year before, finally reached the summit of the Großglockner.

Guarding the impressive north face of the Großglockner is the Pasterze glacier which is 10 km long, 300 m deep, and has a surface area of 20 sq. km. In recent years it has receded over 50 m as shown by year markers painted on its rock bed. From the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe, the Pasterzenkees can be accessed by a class 1 trail (i.e., loose footing) or via a funicular rail which descends 143 m. When this rail was constructed decades ago, it used to reach the surface of the glacier. Today, the ice has receded so much that the rail only reaches the half way point between the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe and the Pasterzenkees. 

At the end of the hike, the surface and the terminal talus of the Pasterzenkees are easily reachable. The glacier is very stable and walking unroped on it is fairly safe, only requiring the assistance of a bit of common sense.  

Crevasse near the end of the Pasterzenkees, Großglocknergruppe, Nationalpark Hohe Tauern, Austria.	People wandering at the base of the terminal talus of the Pasterzenkees, Großglocknergruppe, Nationalpark Hohe Tauern, Austria.	Eduardo enjoys the early afternoon sun at the Pasterze glacier, Großglocknergruppe, Nationalpark Hohe Tauern, Austria.

Pedro I. Espina^©1998