Scott Kinkele,© 1998
From Joe's, the drive winds through the small towns of Northern New York. Five-thirty in the morning is quite early to be driving on windy roads, but the thorough training of the United States Naval Academy, prepared me for the driving stress. A right hand turn begins the long road to PT. I must thank Pedro for sharp eyes and quick thinking for if he did not mention the presence of a 15 mph caution sign, we would have been watching early morning news from the comfort of our car in the Johnson's living room. After the heart rates slowed to a calmer pace, a brief southerly detour, brought us to the infamous Poke-O-Moonshine climbing area.
I parked next to the climb across the street from a local resident. We found out later that proper etiquette requires climbers to park further up the road next the entrance to the park. This is much more that just a courtesy due to the chain saw welding resident across the street. Not worried greatly we continue climbing instead of giving up our turn at the Adirondack test piece. Please, do not park across from the Poke-O-Nazi, but respect his property for it might cause an access issue (for more access information check the Access Fund web page).
The short hike to the base of PT is quick and pleasurable. The years downed trees add a bush whacking experience to a rather snow covered ground. Chris and I began getting dressed for the climb while Pedro started his morning routine behind a log upwind of us. Enough said. Chris and I were trying to decide who was going to lead the first pitch. A game of Rock-Paper-Scissors decided our fate. I won and took some time to look over the route convincing myself that the first pitch was harder and that I would start off.
To say I was scared of my second WI5 lead, is an understatement. After my pre-climb routine was finished, I walked up to the base of Positive Thinking, looked up and then proceeded to adjust the boots, then took off the inner gloves, then the liner gloves, then finally setting the first tool. I shook for thirty feet. My legs were worse than a Singer sowing machine at high speed. I knew my partners were giving each other gazing looks thinking the same thing but not saying a word:
"God, I wonder who gets his gear if he doesn't make it."
Chris was giving me the obligatory slack belay and Pedro was yelling Spanglish words of encouragement: "Come on Navy Boy, you are half way there!" My unspoken reply swore at his obvious lack of depth perception. I continue the climb finally calming down and after 45 minutes yelled down, "OFF BELAY!" Pedro and Chris smoothly joined me at the belay and we encouraged Chris to get moving up the second pitch. From our perspective we suddenly realized the difficulty of the next 150 feet of ice. A thin column formed sixty feet above the belay and was the object of our fear.
Chris started up the pitch placing a screw at the base of the thin column. He stopped for many minutes thinking through the crux of PT. Slowly starting up the column he stopped midway to send down a 100 lbs block of blue ice. Now stemming from the two feet wide column to a thin curtain, Chris yells down, "Watch me." In ice climbing that doesn't mean much. Chris was twenty feet above his last screw, Pedro and I were tied into the rock by three equalized pitons, but if Chris went we were all going. Pedro became concerned because this was the first time he has actually seen fear in Chris. He then turn to a nearby tree and tied himself in. "Thanks for looking out for yourself, buddy!" as I ensured I was tied into him.
After a cold hour and forty-five minutes, I followed in quick fashion to meet Chris. Needing to warm up and finish this climb, I continued non-stop to the third and final pitch and setup an anchor at the top of the climb. Chris was sitting in a precarious semi-cave right before the chimney pitch to the final snow field. Anchoring the rope to the tree I untied and relax enjoying the view of Northern New York. Pedro and Chris easily followed in fine fashion, and we walked off to the left, down by the waterfall area and back to the gear.
Overall Positive Thinking is a must climb in the Adirondack region. Guaranteed to be a Waterfall Ice 5 don't let anyone tell you differently. It is intimidating and will have you crying for your mommy in no time. Get there early, respect the Poke-O-Nazi's wishes, and I am positive you will have a memorable experience!
Scott Kinkele,© 1998